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Kamis, 17 Oktober 2013

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A Beginner's Guide To Beads For Jewelry Making



If you are new to beading and jewelry making, you will soon discover that there are an enormous variety of beads available for use in your projects. There are literally thousands of different types of beads made from all different types of materials, and they come in all different sizes! Who would think that something as small and simple as a bead could cause such overwhelming confusion? Fear not, and follow this beginner's guide to jewelry making beads.


MATERIALS
Beads are made from a huge variety of materials. From stone to bone to precious gems, there is bead for every need! Below is an overview of some of the most popular materials that beads are made from.



METAL BEADS
Metal beads can be broken down into two categories: precious metals and non-precious metals (sometimes known as base metals). Precious metal beads include those made from 22k, 18k or 14k gold, vermeil (sterling silver plated with a thick coating of gold), gold filled (silver or other base metal electroplated with gold) and sterling silver. Base metal beads include copper, brass, nickel, bronze and pewter. Some older pewter beads contain lead, which should be avoided. When purchasing pewter beads, be sure to look for beads that are labeled as lead-free.




NATURAL STONE BEADS
Natural stone beads are considered either precious or semi-precious depending on the type of stone they are made from and whether or not the stone is considered rare or valuable. Precious stones are sometimes referred to as gem stones and although there are a variety of different types of precious gems, only few types are actually made into beads. This is sometimes due to the softness of the stone, such as that of an opal, or because of the rarity of a stone, such as a diamond.
Rubies, sapphires, emeralds and tanzanite are a few types of precious stones that are available in bead form. Other precious gems that are not made into beads are instead cut (faceted) and polished and placed into settings or made into cabochons. Some of the varieties of semiprecious gemstone beads are: amethyst, citrine, moonstone, tiger eye, quartz crystal, rose quartz, turquoise, lapis, apatite, iolite, aquamarine, topaz, peridot, malachite, jade, garnet, carnelian, tourmaline, fluorite, jasper, and agate, among many others.

Many gemstone beads undergo a variety of chemical or heat processes that are meant to harden or enhance the colors of the gems. Some of these processes include bleaching, dyeing, hardening, filling, enhancing, oiling and stabilizing.
In 1982 the American Gem Trade Association established a code of ethics for the jewelry industry pertaining to enhanced gem materials. This code of ethics demands that any retailer must fully disclose any and all enhancements made to a stone or gem. If you plan to sell any jewelry that you make, you must also disclose to your customer if any of the stones in your jewelry have been enhanced.

PEARLS
Pearls are always a popular beading medium. Pearls are natural or cultured, and farmed in either saltwater or freshwater. Some common shapes of pearl beads include round, potato, baroque, rice, seed, stick, and coin. Pearls are graded to discern their quality. For example, a pearl that is graded AAA will have an excellent luster, be free of blemishes, be very smooth and have a thick nacre. A pearl that is graded C, on the other hand, may have some blemishes and not be as smooth or lustrous as a higher graded pearl. Pearls are often bleached and are available in a large variety of dyed colors.



OTHER NATURAL MATERIALS
Beads are available from many different types of natural materials including wood, bamboo, horn, bone, seashell, coral, seeds, and amber (petrified tree resin). Some of the varieties of coral, shell and bone (usually cow, goat and water buffalo bone) are often bleached and dyed. Amber is always hardened.


GLASS BEADS
Glass beads have been used in jewelry since ancient times. Nowadays, there are a vast variety to choose from. Some popular types include pressed glass beads (also known as molded glass), lampworked or flameworked glass beads, dichroic (pronounced die-crow-ick) glass beads, millefiori glass beads, seed beads and frosted glass beads. Some glass beads are marketed as "glass pearls." These beads are not true pearls but are glass beads coated with paint or an acrylic coating that makes them resemble pearls.


CRYSTAL BEADS
Known for their fabulous sparkle, crystal beads are machine cut glass beads that have an extremely smooth surface. They come in a wide variety of colors and shapes. Some of the most popular shapes are faceted cubes, tapered (diamond shaped), rounds, saucers, and teardrops.


ACRYLIC BEADS
Acrylic beads are made from different types of plastic and are usually the most inexpensive type of beads. They are available in almost any color and shape imaginable and are sometimes made to look like pearls, gemstone and stone beads.


OTHER/MISCELLANIOUS BEADS
Some more unusual beads are made from paper, clay, glazed ceramic, polymer clay, PMC (preciousmetal clay), as well as found objects and repurposed/recycled items (such as dice and coins).


BEAD SIZES
Bead sizes range from tiny seed beads to large, centerpiece beads known as focal beads. Most beads sold today are measured in millimeters. One exception is the seed bead, which is measured in aughts. Some common sizes of seed beads are 11/0 (2-2.5 mm diameter) and 8/0 (3-4 mm diameter). One important thing to consider when buying beads is the size of the hole. Some beads (namely pearls and gemstone beads) have holes that are quite small and will not easily accommodate a stringing medium that has too wide a diameter. One handy tool used to remedy this problem is called a pearl reamer. With it, you can enlarge the bead's hole.

SHAPES OF BEADS
The shapes of beads that you can buy are nearly as varied as the materials they are made from. Some standard shapes include round, briolette, teardrop briolette, tube, faceted rounds, twisted, rondelle, disc, barrel, flower, leaf, heart, square, diamond, drum, oval, long oval, flat oval, cone, cube, donut, heishi, coin, fan, slab, carved, nugget, pebbles and chips.

HOW BEADS ARE SOLD
In most cases, the packaging or manufacturer will determine how beads are sold. Some of the more expensive precious metal and gemstone beads are sold individually. Other beads will come packaged by quantity such as 4, 10 or 50 to a package. Many wholesalers offer beads by the gross, which is a quantity of 144 beads. Certain types of beads such as seed beads are sold by weight. For example, a 4-gram tube of size 11/0 seed beads will contain approximately 800 beads. Many pearl and gemstone beads are sold by the strand, and are purchased temporarily strung. When buying pre-strung beads, be sure to note the length of the strand. One common length of pre-strung beads is 16 inches. Others are sold in strands of only four inches. The number of beads that you will receive from a strand depends greatly on the size of the bead and also whether there are spacer beads strung between the beads. Spacer beads are inexpensive plastic or glass beads whose purpose is to display the purchased beads and to separate them so they do not rub against one other.


What's your favorite type of bead?


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Selasa, 08 Oktober 2013

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Essential Jewelry Making Tools For Beginners




Basic jewelry making tools can be broken down into two basic categories: the essentials and the non-essentials. Those that are essential to the craft are the fundamental tools that would be used by a hobbyist, student or beginner. These are the basic tools that are necessary for jewelry making and beading. I call these the "Need to haves."

The Essential "Need to haves"

Adequate Lighting
Ask any artist what their most valuable tools are and no doubt great lighting will top their list. A well-lit work-space is crucial to jewelry making, as it is to any craft or art.

A Proper Work Surface
For beaders this can be as simple as a towel spread out over your table, or an old pillowcase. Forgo covering your work surface and you will soon find yourself spending a lot of time chasing after rolling beads! 

Safety Glasses
Although you do not need them for simple bead stringing, you will definitely need them when working with any jewelry adhesives or chemicals. Safety glasses should also be worn when cutting wire, pouring resin, and working with tools.


Magnified Reading Glasses
These are one my most essential tools! I wear non-prescription reading glasses for reading and well, for seeing a few feet in front of my face, but I always have an inexpensive extra pair in a higher magnification on my workbench. When you reach age 40 you will understand! Get them at the dollar store.

Storage & Organization
Once you get started buying beads and jewelry findings you will be surprised at how quickly all those little pieces will accumulate! They will catch up with you eventually, so it's best to start out with some type of organization and storage from the start. Two essentials for storage and organization are:
* Multi-compartment organization boxes: These snap-lid plastic boxes are inexpensive and available at most craft retailers. They contain many small compartments and are perfect for organizing and storing beads. 
* Zipper seal baggies: I find the 2" and 3" sizes to be quite useful, plus they are small enough to fit into the compartments of most organization boxes.

Pliers
There are three basic types of pliers used for jewelry making:



* Round nose pliers: Also known as rosary pliers, round nose pliers have rounded jaws that taper to a point at the tips. They are used for bending wire and for making loops, wrapped loops, eye pins, S-shaped curves, coils and spirals in wire.



* Chain nose pliers: These pliers are semi-round. The inside of the jaws (where they meet) are flat. The jaws taper to a point at the tips. They are used for bending and wrapping wire, making loops and to open and close jump rings. Get a pair with small, pointy tips. The small tips are essential for getting into tight spaces.

* Crimping pliers: These pliers have specially notched jaws that are used to fold and crimp metal crimp beads. Crimp beads are essential for securing the ends of strung bead projects, such as necklaces and bracelets.

Wire Cutters

Also known as flush cutters, wire cutters are essential for making clean, precise cuts on wire, beading wire, eyepins and headpins. Note: never use general purpose wire cutters to cut memory wire, as this will damage their blades. To cut memory wire, use memory wire cutters which are specially made to cut stainless steel wire.

Ruler or Measuring Tape

A basic household ruler or measuring tape is an invaluable tool for measuring the length of your beading projects. I keep a mm ruler close at hand as well.

100mm Pocket Slide Gauge
This small tool comes in handy for measuring beads and jewelry components.


Create a Visual Size Guide for Beads

I created my own visual guide to bead sizes years ago when I started out working with beads. All I did was glue a few extra beads onto an index card for easy reference when I wasn't sure if I needed a 4mm or 6mm bead for a project (for example.)  After years of jewelry making, I can size a bead just by looking at it, so I no longer use this, but it came in handy plenty of times, especially when I was reordering beads from a supplier.

Quality Adhesive
A superior gel or liquid adhesive is essential for a quality finished project.

There are many other jewelry making tools that are not immediately necessary, but are still useful. I call these tools the "Nice to haves." Some folks may consider these tools little luxuries that make doing some jobs easier. Some are used for more advanced techniques, or may be geared toward a particular type of jewelry making, such as pearl stringing. These are the tools used by advanced students and professionals.


Nice to Have (but not immediately necessary)

Magnifying Work Light
A magnifying work light sits on or attaches to your worktable and allows you an enlarged view of your project. These lights are very useful when working with small components.

Bead Boards
These are lightweight flocked boards that have compartments for holding beads and slots to place beads in while you are building a design. They will also sometimes have measurements on them to help you determine the length of a bracelet or necklace while you are working on the design. Bead boards are usually gray or another soft color. This helps prevent eyestrain that can occur when working for longer periods of time. 


Teacups and little dishes

I have bead boards but I really don't use them often because I don't do much bead stringing. I DO use lots of little vintage dishes to hold my beads & components while I am working. 

Fancy pliers 
There are all types of fancy pliers that do different jobs. For example, flat nose pliers have flat jaws that taper at the tips, but they are not as pointy as chain nose or round nose pliers. They are used for holding components, making bends in wire and metal, and flattening and straightening metal. They are not an essential tool for a beginner but if you may want to eventually pick a pair up down the road once your hobby turns into an obsession.

Wire Straightening Pliers
This tool's jaws are made from or covered with nylon which protects the wire you are working with from nicks and marring. They are used for wire wrapping and for straightening wire. If you get into wire wrapping then you will certainly need a pair of these, but for basic jewelry making you do not immediately need a pair.

String Knotting Tool
This tool is used for tying consistent, precise knots quickly. It is most often used for stringing pearls and tying bead strands.

Diamond tipped bead reamer / pearl reamer
Reamers are useful for enlarging holes in beads and pearls and also for de-burring and smoothing rough edges around the holes of beads. 


Liver Of Sulfur
Liver of sulfur is a chemical antiquing agent that is used to give shiny silver an antiqued, vintage look. 

How To Books & Magazines
Instructional books and magazines are great for keeping on top of trends and for learning new jewelry techniques. They are also a great way to find jewelry supply retailers and wholesalers.

As you can see, there are many different types of jewelry making tools and each has its own special use. My advice for the beginner is to buy only what you immediately need, but buy the best quality you can afford. In time, as you master basic skills and learn more advanced techniques, you will find out from your own experience which tools are essential to your craft.





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What are your most essential jewelry making tools?